This page:
Removing The Gearbox From An Alfa 4C
The gearbox can't be removed in situ so the engine needs to be hoisted out. To access the engine both side wings, boot lid and boot first need to do a disappearing act. This particular 4C has already clocked 70,000 miles, is driven in all kinds of conditions and when it's not having it's neck wrung lives the rest of it's days chained OUTSIDE it's roost. While the engine's out it would be practical to replace the cam belt. This is a 'rough' version of a 'How To', not so much of how to take something off but what to take off
 | Remove the rear tail light in the boot lid, unplug it then take off the boot lid. |
|
 | Remove the engine cover. |
|
 | Unclip the intercooler hose, disconnect the battery then remove it and it's tray. |
|
 | Take off the side trims to the boot. |
|
 | Pop out the boot plastic button fixings. |
|
 | Prise the clip holding the boot prop and extract the prop. |
|
 | Remove the plastic bath tub in the back. |
|
 | Disconnect and remove the coolant tank.... |
|
 | ....then both the coolant and battery support plates. |
|
 | Unbolt the brace bar. |
|
 | Undo the x2 bolts to the plastic surround of the petrol filler neck, remove and undo the third bolt that was underneath. |
|
 | Take off the under tray.... |
|
 | ....the rear wheels.... |
|
 | ....and the wheel arch liners. |
|
 | Remove both the wings. |
|
 | Split the rear wishbones from the pillars. |
|
 | Take out both drives shafts. |
|
 | Disconnect the ECU and wiring looms as you go... |
|
 | ....as well as any hoses and lines. |
|
 | Take off the auxiliary belt and unbolt the air con pump. |
|
 | Unbolt the exhaust... |
|
 | ...and the bottom engine mount. |
|
 | Support the engine and unbolt the right hand engine mount... |
|
 | ....and the left hand. |
|
 | Undo the x2 bolts in the left side chassis. |
|
 | Hoist the baby out! |
|
 | Unbolt the gearbox and take it off. |
|
 | Now the clutch is exposed. Next fit the thrust bearing. This is measurement Y on the Alfa Romeo instructions and should be 44.6mm +/- 2mm and the thrust bearing should be just kissing the clutch fingers. It is worth tightening the thrust bearing a little more to make sure the measurement X decreases and then undo the nut until the measurement X is identical to your initial measurement I.E. The fingers of the clutch MUST NOT be exerting ANY force on the thrust bearing. Next check measurement X it should be exactly the same as your first measurement, this is crucial (and is not mentioned in Alfa Romeo's instructions). Next do up the thrust bearing 10.5 turns and X should reduce by 10.5 mm +/- 0.1 mm This has pulled the rod from its rest position out 10.5 mm this has now set your K1 clutch closed position. Things to note 1. the 44.6mm +/- 2mm is very much a guide and its good to be right but it doesn't matter to much if it is anywhere within tolerance. This can be adjusted if required by rotating the flywheel self adjustment (the yellow springs) 2. The adjustment of the rod is absolutely crucial and the measurements you make here must be exact. 3. The aim is to get the clutch slave cylinder so it is exactly at its zero position with the thrust bearing just kissing the clutch fingers, to tight and the fingers pull the slave cylinder away from its zero position. To loose and there is free play before the cylinder operates the thrust bearing and begins to release the clutch. 4. The thrust bearing is fully floating and it may need a light tap with a rubber mallet on the operating rod from the slave cylinder to get it to align with the clutch fingers, do this before you make any measurements if it appears to be significantly miss aligned. This needs to be done with the operating rod under tension of at least 5 turns. 5. When the clutch is fitted the examiner should give a figure of around 10.5mm +/- 0.3mm for the clutch K1 closed position if the job has been done correctly. |
|
Related Links: Cam belt replacement | Samco intercooler hoses | 4C servicing